Tuesday, December 15, 2009

I Could Have Danced All Night...


Friday, Dec 11:
Today, "Educating for Gross National Happiness" focused on non-formal education. One of the biggest problems in Bhutan are the disenfranchised youth who do not pass their grade 10 exams. Without passage, they are flushed from the system at 16. Lama Shenphen Zangpho, works with these children, who, after failing out of school, spend their days taking pills, smoking pot, drinking, and playing snooker. Since they lack a high school diploma, they have little hope of finding jobs. Due to the increasing number of boys on the streets, today we grappled with ideas of reforming the exam system so as not to loose kids to the streets; the creation of vocational schools and community colleges; and building alternative economies for those without high school educations. The statistics and need are staggering. Only thirty percent of the students in Bhutan pass their tenth grade exams.

Media Literacy came up over and over...the difficulties of western television and the false perception that those living abroad all are rich and have lots of sex. These perceptions are taking its toll on the Bhutanese population and are eroding the values of GNH. Children need to be able to understand that though seductive, many programs are neither accurate or enriching.

At the break, I had a long chat with the Minister of Education about monastery schools. Monks study dharma from the time they are children without exposure to any academic studies. Although dharma studies are intellectually rigorous, there is a real interest in English classes as well as science and other academic tracks. The Tributary Fund is interested in introducing ecology, a science that reflects the Buddhist ideals or inter-connectedness. Perhaps this can be seen as the first step in reforming the monastery school education model. Ecological studies could pave the way for other academic opportunities if it is accepted by the monk body. I will leave on Sunday for Phobjikha Valley to meet with monks and teachers. When I came here in April, I asked the young monks, if they could study anything what would it be? “Animals,” was the nearly universal answer. By introducing ecology to monastery schools, we’ll indulge the interests of the children and introduce science. This will hopefully inspire educated and passionate monastic stewards who enjoy such high respect in their communities.

My evening ended on a high note. I went to a small dinner party thrown by the Prime Minister. The food was amazing! Tandoori chicken, naan, rice pilau, fish curry, chili pork and very nice red wine! It must be good to be Prime Minister and it was good to be his guest. The ministers all wore their formal ghos—red stripped, knee length robes, with formal knee socks and shoes. The women wore their long formal skirts, also stripped, wrapped several times around their hips. I was seated next to the PM and after the meal we cut the rug to Bhutanese folk music. It was so delightful and so joyful, that I can’t remember when I felt so fortunate (maybe the entire month I spent in France with my wonderful husband). We finished the evening with a traditional dance where we all joined pinkies and moved clock-wise in a circle, bowing and kicking up our heels.

Saturday, Dec 12:
Saturday was a day of crafting timelines and wrapping up the week. Frankly, it was boring and my eyes are crossed. But despite the tedious nature of today’s discussion, when my mind returns from this numb state, I know that I will take something very valuable away from here. I have witnessed a culture bent on creating a true brave new world. By valuing the Gross National Happiness over modernization, money, influence, and status quo, Bhutan is showing such courage and integrity, that this week, it has outshined all other nations in the world. GNH is so plucky, but, after hearing about all of the potential pitfalls, first and foremost HUMAN NATURE, is GNH Quixotic?

I’d like to quote a British participant who has lived in Bhutan for 38 years, when he came in 1971 to teach the children of the King. He loves this country and adores its culture. He has been a notable cynic throughout the workshop, and today his comments focused on his love of the culture and the enormity of the task at hand. With a wry smile that the British have truly mastered, he said, “Anything worth doing, is worth doing badly.” Educating for Gross National Happiness is worth doing because it is beautiful. So, I’ll say to my Bhutanese friends, despite your protracted, sloppy, circuitous, and impossible road ahead, “Buddha speed.” And I’m in...

“Who amongst us, as we began to walk, didn’t fall a thousand times?” asked one conference attendee.

No one, of course. Educating for GNH is Herculean, but Bhutan has four enormous assets— a Prime Minister, who is incredibly dedicated and has made Educating for GNH an utmost priority; the fifth King, who at 29, is as devoted to his country as his father, the founder of GNH; a country with an environment and culture that maintains a purity unknown in much of the world; and the most elegant and committed children I have ever encountered. If any country can light the way for the world, it’s Bhutan. I am beyond thrilled that TTF is along for the ride.

Still more to come on Phobjikha and the trick of maintaining a secular Buddhist philosophy in the classroom. (It will in fact come as it’s for my PhD advisor!)

~ Betsy

No comments:

Post a Comment